I grew up as a chef under the tutelage of male European chefs, because in 1977 when I entered the esteemed halls of the Culinary Institute of America – male European chefs dominated the educational staff. So it is probably no surprise that I learned that all great food came from Europe – all great food came from far away and if I wanted to become a great chef – then I needed to cook like the masters and that meant not cooking with local ingredients.

Fast Forward to 1990 when I became the Executive Chef of the Putney Inn in Vermont and my journey toward local - sustainable food truly began. The transition wasn’t an easy one and one day I found myself in Puerto Rico with Chef’s Collaborative, sitting on the grass listening to Joan Gussow talk about what was happening with the fledgling Organic movement and she warned that if we weren’t careful – the Organic Industry would be filled with the likes of Organic Twinkies.

Along my own path of organic – local – sustainable, I wrote “Bitter Harvest” and became a member of the National Organic Standards Board; a position I resigned from in large part, because all we ever discussed was what chemicals could be used in Organics. As my journey and knowledge of these issues has progressed I became a “lunch lady” and started to dedicate my time to changing children’s relationship to food and school food advocacy work.

All of which lead me to spending two days at the Natural Products Expo this year and Organic Gummy Worms, which some unwitting producer proudly showed me as he crowed that these were the first certified Organic Gummy Worms – an idea to showcase sustainable agriculture to children. At which point my head exploded. But as I kept walking the show of almost 2,000 presenters and attendees totally ten’s of thousands, I was struck by the plethora of organic junk food – I’m only glad Joan wasn’t there to witness this – although I’m sure she wouldn’t have been surprised.

I think that the Organic and Natural foods industry, which has come under fire recently for food safety issues, needs to lead the way toward a healthier more sustainable food system. A system where our children’s health is of utmost import – not just more business as usual that puts a higher priority on corporate profits than our children’s health. During the show as I was “railing” about Organic junk food a friend said that organic junk food is somewhat better than its non-organic namesake.

With that in mind I share the following which is an excerpt from my book “Lunch Lessons” that speaks to these issues.

Organic Pop Tarts?
Ann Cooper and Lisa Holmes

We have been writing together for many years and have grown to respect each other tremendously and most often think very alike, however we agree to disagree ever so slightly on organic junk/processed food.

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